Retinol is one of the most proven ingredients in skincare. It can soften fine lines, improve uneven tone, and support smoother texture. The downside is that many people also get dryness, redness, and flaking, especially when they start. That is where bakuchiol comes in.
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived skincare ingredient that has become popular because it can deliver some similar visible benefits to retinol, while often being easier to tolerate. It is not a retinoid, and it does not behave exactly like retinol, but research suggests it can influence the skin in “retinol-like” ways.1
What Is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol found in the seeds and leaves of the plant Psoralea corylifolia (also called babchi).2 In skincare, it is used in topical products like serums and moisturizers.
A common misconception is that bakuchiol is “basically plant retinol.” It is not. Importantly, it has no structural resemblance to retinoids like retinol or retinoic acid.2 Instead of being vitamin A-based, bakuchiol is its own distinct molecule. That distinction matters because it helps explain why it can feel gentler for some people.
How Can It Act Like Retinol If It Is Not Retinol?
Think of retinol like a coach that encourages your skin cells to behave in a more youthful way: smoother surface turnover, stronger support structure, and more even tone over time. Bakuchiol is not the same coach, but it may deliver some similar “training cues” through different biology.
One of the most cited mechanistic studies compared bakuchiol and retinol using gene expression profiling in a full-thickness skin model. The researchers found that bakuchiol produced a gene-expression pattern that broadly overlapped with retinol’s effects, even though the molecules are not structurally related.2
That same research also reported changes consistent with anti-aging goals at the protein level, including effects related to collagen (types I, III, and IV) and aquaporin-3 (a protein involved in hydration).2 It is important to interpret this correctly: these are laboratory models, not a guarantee that every product will rebuild collagen in real life. But it helps explain why bakuchiol is taken seriously as more than a marketing trend.
What Do Human Studies Show?
When judging whether an ingredient “works,” human trials matter most. Bakuchiol has fewer high-quality trials than retinoids, but there are several studies worth knowing.
Bakuchiol vs Retinol: A Head-to-Head Clinical Trial
A well-known randomized, double-blind, 12-week study compared bakuchiol 0.5% cream used twice daily to retinol 0.5% used once daily in 44 participants with facial photoaging. Both groups saw significant improvements in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, and the differences between groups were not statistically significant.3
The tolerability results are a key reason bakuchiol has become popular: the retinol group reported more scaling and stinging, while bakuchiol was better tolerated overall in this study.3 That does not mean bakuchiol can never irritate, but it supports the idea that it may be a gentler option for many people.
Sensitive Skin and Skin Barrier Measures
Another clinical study focused on people with sensitive skin. In a 4-week trial (60 women, including subgroups with eczema or atopic dermatitis, rosacea, and cosmetic intolerance), participants used a cleanser and moisturizer containing bakuchiol (1% in the moisturizer). Investigators reported improvements in smoothness, clarity, radiance, and overall appearance. The study also measured hydration with corneometry and found a statistically significant 16% increase in moisture content.4
Notably, the authors reported no increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), a common measure used to assess whether the skin barrier is being disrupted.4 This is encouraging, especially for people who avoid retinoids because their skin barrier feels easily “thrown off.”
Acne and Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
Bakuchiol is most famous for anti-aging, but it has also been studied for acne-prone skin. In a small open-label pilot study, 13 participants used a topical product containing 0.5% bakuchiol twice daily for 12 weeks. The study reported reductions in inflammatory lesions and improvements in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, with good tolerability in the group studied.5
This was not a placebo-controlled trial, so it cannot prove cause and effect as strongly as a randomized study. Still, it suggests bakuchiol may be useful beyond wrinkles, especially for people who want a single ingredient that can support both tone and texture.
Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory, and Antibacterial Claims: What Is Fair to Say?
You will often see bakuchiol described as antioxidant or anti-inflammatory. A 2022 systematic review of bakuchiol in dermatology summarizes evidence supporting anti-aging applications and also describes antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, while emphasizing that more studies are needed for many skin conditions.1
The most accurate way to phrase this for a consumer article is:
- Bakuchiol has evidence for anti-aging effects and may also have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial activity in the broader literature.
- Most non-anti-aging claims are supported more by early research and reviews than by large, definitive clinical trials.
How to Use Bakuchiol in a Routine
Bakuchiol is typically found in leave-on products like serums and moisturizers. In clinical studies, concentrations around 0.5% to 1% have been used.34 Real-world product concentrations vary, and brands do not always disclose them.
Practical tips that align with how bakuchiol is studied and used:
- Use it consistently. The best human data for photoaging uses daily application over 12 weeks.3
- Start simple. If you have sensitive skin, introduce one new active at a time so you can tell what your skin likes.
- Pair with moisturizer. Even “gentler” actives can feel drying in some routines, especially if you also use exfoliating acids.
- Wear sunscreen. No anti-aging ingredient substitutes for UV protection, and UV exposure is a primary driver of wrinkles and uneven pigmentation.
If you are switching from retinol because of irritation, bakuchiol can be a reasonable next step. If you tolerate retinoids well and want maximal evidence-backed results, retinoids still have the deeper research bench. Bakuchiol can also be used as a bridge ingredient: a way to get meaningful improvement without the common “retinol adjustment period.”3
Safety and Side Effects
Most studies report good tolerability, including in sensitive skin panels.4 However, “gentle” does not mean “impossible to react to.” There are published case reports of allergic contact dermatitis to bakuchiol in cosmetics.67
A practical way to handle this is to patch test new leave-on products, especially if you have a history of reacting to cosmetics. Apply a small amount to a discreet area (like the inner forearm) for several days and watch for persistent itching, redness, or rash before applying to the face.
The Takeaway
Bakuchiol is a credible, research-backed skincare ingredient, especially for people who want anti-aging benefits but struggle with retinol irritation. It is not vitamin A and it is not structurally related to retinoids, but studies show it can produce retinol-like patterns in skin biology and improve visible signs of photoaging in humans.23
Used consistently for a few months, it can help support smoother texture and more even tone, and it may be a strong option for sensitive skin types when formulated well.4 Just remember: the product formula matters, sunscreen is still essential, and rare allergies can happen like with any cosmetic ingredient.6
References
- Puyana C, Chandan N, Tsoukas M. Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022;21(12):6636-6643. doi:10.1111/jocd.15420. PubMed
- Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014;36(3):221-230. doi:10.1111/ics.12117. PubMed
- Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289-296. doi:10.1111/bjd.16918. PubMed
- Draelos ZD, Gunt H, Zeichner J, Levy S. Clinical Evaluation of a Nature-Based Bakuchiol Anti-Aging Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(12):1181-1183. doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.5522. PubMed
- Brownell L, Geen S, E Y, Lee WL. A Clinical Study Evaluating the Efficacy of Topical Bakuchiol (UP256) Cream on Facial Acne. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021;20(3):307-310. doi:10.36849/JDD.5655. PubMed
- Malinauskiene L, Linauskiene K, Černiauskas K, Chomičiene A. Bakuchiol-A new allergen in cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis. 2019;80(6):398-399. doi:10.1111/cod.13211. PubMed
- Raison-Peyron N, Dereure O. A new case of contact dermatitis to bakuchiol in a cosmetic cream. Contact Dermatitis. 2020;82(1):61-62. doi:10.1111/cod.13387. PubMed
