How Peptides Improve Your Skin by Signaling Collagen Production
By The Metabolic Skincare Team
By The Metabolic Skincare Team
When it comes to healthy, youthful-looking skin, collagen is one of the biggest players. Collagen is a structural protein that acts like scaffolding under your skin. It gives skin its firmness and bounce. The tricky part is that collagen production naturally slows down as we age, which is why fine lines and sagging show up over time¹.
That’s where peptides come in. Peptides are short chains of amino acids (the building blocks of proteins) that have become popular in skincare because some of them can “signal” your skin to make more collagen². Think of peptides like little messengers that remind your skin cells to keep doing their job.
Collagen makes up about 70% of the dermis, which is the deeper layer of your skin beneath the surface³. Fibroblast cells are the ones that actually make collagen. With age and sun exposure, these cells slow down and collagen production drops off. That’s why the skin loses firmness, develops wrinkles, and can look less plump over time¹.
Not all peptides do the same thing, but here are a few categories you might see on ingredient lists⁴:
Signal peptides – These are like a nudge to your fibroblast cells, encouraging them to produce more collagen and sometimes elastin.
Carrier peptides – Often combined with metals like copper, these help deliver trace elements that support healing and repair.
Enzyme-inhibiting peptides – These may help slow down the breakdown of collagen by blocking certain enzymes.
“Botox-like” peptides – Ingredients like acetyl hexapeptide-8 may reduce the look of expression lines by interfering with muscle signaling, but the effect is much gentler than an injection⁵.
Copper peptides – These pair copper with a peptide to help with wound healing and overall skin repair⁶.
It’s worth noting that most peptides are too large to easily dive deep into your skin. The outermost layer, the stratum corneum, acts like a tough barrier. This means peptides often work best near the surface unless they’re paired with special delivery systems like liposomes or microneedles⁷.
Some peptides have real evidence behind them. One of the most famous is palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, better known as Matrixyl. In a well-done clinical study, people using Matrixyl saw noticeable reductions in wrinkle depth compared to a placebo⁸.
Copper peptides (like GHK-Cu) have also shown promise for wound healing and supporting collagen repair⁶. Other peptides marketed as “expression relaxers” have mixed results, but some users notice softer fine lines when used consistently⁵.
That said, not every product that lists “peptides” will deliver dramatic results. Formulation and delivery matter a lot.
If you’re curious to try peptides, look for serums or creams that highlight specific peptides (like Matrixyl or copper peptides) rather than just saying “peptide complex.” Apply them consistently for a few months to see changes in skin texture and firmness.
And remember, peptides aren’t magic on their own. They work best alongside sunscreen, a good moisturizer, and healthy lifestyle choices like diet and sleep. Think of them as part of a bigger toolkit for skin health.
Peptides are a promising ingredient in skincare. Some can encourage your skin to keep making collagen, others may help protect or repair it, and a few can soften the look of expression lines. They aren’t miracle workers, but with the right product and consistency, they can be a solid ally for keeping your skin looking firm, smooth, and radiant.
Varani J et al. “Decreased collagen production in chronologically aged skin.” Am J Pathol. 2006.
Gorouhi F, Maibach HI. “Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin.” Int J Cosmet Sci. 2009.
Shoulders MD, Raines RT. “Collagen structure and stability.” Annu Rev Biochem. 2009.
Pickart L, Margolina A. “Regenerative and protective actions of the GHK-Cu peptide in the light of the new gene data.” Int J Mol Sci. 2018.
Blanes-Mira C et al. “A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity.” Int J Cosmet Sci. 2002.
Pickart L, Thaler MM. “Tripeptide in human serum which prolongs survival of normal liver cells and stimulates growth in neoplastic liver.” Nature New Biol. 1973.
Bos JD, Meinardi MM. “The 500 Dalton rule for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs.” Exp Dermatol. 2000.
Robinson LR et al. “Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin.” Int J Cosmet Sci. 2005.