What does Licorice Root do in Skincare?

Licorice Root Extract: A Natural Brightener for Your Skin

Licorice root extract has become a go-to ingredient in many brightening serums and creams. Long used in traditional medicine, this plant-based extract brings together antioxidants, anti-inflammatory compounds, and natural skin-brightening molecules. Let’s take a closer look at how licorice root works and why it is a favorite for tackling uneven skin tone and pigmentation.


What Is Licorice Root Extract?

Licorice root comes from the Glycyrrhiza plant family, most often Glycyrrhiza glabra. Beyond its history in herbal remedies, modern skincare values licorice root extract for calming irritation and helping to even out discoloration. Scientists have identified several compounds inside licorice that are especially helpful for skin.


Key Compounds in Licorice Root

  • Glabridin: A well-studied licorice isoflavan. In lab and animal studies, glabridin helps block the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme that drives melanin (pigment) production. This gives it potential as a brightening agent¹.

  • Liquiritin: Another active compound. Instead of blocking pigment production, liquiritin helps disperse existing melanin in the skin. Small clinical studies have shown it can improve melasma and other hyperpigmentation when used topically².

  • Glycyrrhizin and licochalcone A: These compounds shine more for their anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, helping calm redness and irritation³.


How Licorice Root Extract Helps Skin

Brightening and Pigmentation

By reducing melanin activity (glabridin) and helping move out existing pigment (liquiritin), licorice root can visibly fade dark spots, sun spots, and other uneven patches¹².

Calming Irritation

Licorice also contains molecules that tone down inflammation in the skin, which can be useful if you struggle with redness or sensitivity³.

Antioxidant Support

Some compounds in licorice root have antioxidant properties, meaning they can help defend the skin from oxidative stress caused by pollution and UV exposure⁴.


How to Use Licorice Root Extract

You’ll find licorice root extract in serums, creams, gels, and masks. If fading dark spots is your main goal, look for products that mention glabridin or liquiritin specifically, since these are the brightening stars. As with any new skincare product, patch test first and always pair brightening products with daily sunscreen. Without UV protection, dark spots can keep coming back.


The Takeaway

Licorice root extract is not a fad ingredient — it has solid science behind it. Thanks to compounds like glabridin and liquiritin, it can help reduce hyperpigmentation and support a more even skin tone. Add in its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and licorice root becomes a versatile addition to skincare routines focused on calming, brightening, and protecting the skin.


Sources

  1. Yokota T, Nishio H, Kubota Y, Mizoguchi M. The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation. Pigment Cell Res. 1998.

  2. Amer M, Metwalli M. Topical liquiritin improves melasma. Int J Dermatol. 2000.

  3. Kolbe L, Immeyer J, Batzer J, et al. Anti-inflammatory efficacy of licochalcone A: correlation of clinical potency and in vitro effects. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006.

  4. Cerulli A, Masullo M, Montoro P, Piacente S. Licorice (Glycyrrhiza spp.) in cosmetics: a review. Cosmetics. 2022.