Licorice Root in Skincare

If you read the ingredient lists on brightening serums, you will often see licorice root extract. It shows up in products that target dark spots, melasma, and post-acne marks, and it is not just marketing. Licorice contains several plant compounds that have been studied for their effects on pigment, irritation, and oxidative stress in the skin.^1,2

This article explains what licorice root extract is, how it works on hyperpigmentation, what the research actually shows, and how to use it in a sensible, evidence-informed skincare routine.

What Is Licorice Root Extract?

Licorice root extract comes from plants in the Glycyrrhiza genus, especially Glycyrrhiza glabra. These roots have been used in traditional systems of medicine for centuries for respiratory, digestive, and inflammatory complaints.¹ Modern analysis shows that licorice contains several groups of bioactive molecules, including:

• Flavonoids such as glabridin, liquiritin, and licochalcone A
• Triterpenoid saponins, especially glycyrrhizin

These compounds have antioxidant, anti inflammatory, and pigment regulating effects in experimental models, which is why licorice extract has become a frequent addition to cosmetic formulas that target uneven tone.^1,2,3,4,5

Why Pigment Forms in the First Place

To understand what licorice can and cannot do, it helps to know how dark spots form. Skin color is largely driven by melanin, a pigment made inside cells called melanocytes. When your skin is exposed to sunlight, hormones, or inflammation, melanocytes are signaled to produce more melanin as a protective response.

Melanin production takes place through a series of reactions, and one key step is controlled by an enzyme called tyrosinase. Tyrosinase is often described as a rate limiting step in melanin synthesis. If you can slow it down, you can usually slow down new pigment production.⁵ Many brightening ingredients, including licorice derivatives, target this pathway.

Key Brightening Compounds in Licorice Root

Glabridin: A Tyrosinase Inhibitor With Anti Inflammatory Effects

Glabridin is one of the best studied flavonoids in licorice. In cell and animal models, glabridin inhibits tyrosinase activity and reduces UV induced pigmentation.^2,3 In a classic study, glabridin suppressed melanin production in melanocyte cultures and reduced UVB induced darkening in guinea pig skin without damaging the cells, suggesting a specific effect on melanogenesis rather than general toxicity.³

Glabridin also appears to have anti inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Laboratory studies show that it can reduce the production of pro inflammatory molecules and help limit oxidative damage from free radicals.^2,3,4 Since inflammation and oxidative stress are important drivers of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and photoaging, this combination of effects is particularly relevant for people dealing with dark marks after acne or sun exposure.

Liquiritin: Helping Redistribute Existing Pigment

Liquiritin is another licorice component that behaves a bit differently from glabridin. Rather than strongly blocking tyrosinase, liquiritin seems to help disperse and redistribute existing melanin within the skin, which can make dark patches look lighter and more even over time.⁵

Several small clinical trials have looked at creams that contain purified liquiritin for melasma. In one study of 20 women, a 20 percent liquiritin cream applied to one side of the face for four weeks produced significantly more lightening of melasma patches compared with a placebo vehicle.⁶ Another study compared 2 percent and 4 percent liquiritin creams with 4 percent hydroquinone in women with melasma. All three groups improved, and the higher concentration liquiritin performed similarly to hydroquinone in that trial, although the sample size was modest.⁷

These studies are small and do not prove that every licorice serum will work like a prescription lightening cream. They do, however, provide early human evidence that certain purified licorice fractions can improve hyperpigmentation when used consistently under controlled conditions.^5,6,7,8

Licochalcone A and Glycyrrhizin: Soothing and Protective

Licorice also contains licochalcone A and glycyrrhizin. These compounds have been studied primarily for their anti inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties.^1,2,9 In simple terms, they help calm overactive immune responses in the skin and reduce the impact of environmental stressors.

Because inflammation often triggers or worsens hyperpigmentation, especially in skin of color, ingredients that calm the skin can indirectly support a more even tone. This is one reason licorice extracts often appear in products designed for sensitive, redness prone, or acne prone skin in addition to brightening formulas.^5,9

What Clinical Research Tells Us About Licorice and Dark Spots

Most of the detailed mechanistic work on licorice components comes from laboratory and animal studies. However, there are also human studies that give us a more practical picture of what to expect.

• Liquiritin for melasma. In the melasma trials mentioned earlier, liquiritin based creams used once or twice daily for several weeks led to measurable improvements in hyperpigmentation scores and visual appearance compared with placebo, with good tolerability.^6,7
• Combination brightening formulas. Some clinical studies have tested creams that combine licorice extract with other brightening agents, such as vitamin C, emblica, or kojic acid. A systematic review of botanical treatments for melasma concluded that licorice derivatives show promise, although the evidence is still limited and heterogeneous.^5,8

Dermatology reviews that summarize the literature consider licorice extract one of several natural ingredients with early clinical support for treating mild hyperpigmentation, especially when used in combination formulations and alongside strict sun protection.^5,8,9 At the same time, these reviews emphasize that more large, long term, and well controlled studies are needed.

The practical takeaway is that licorice root extract is not on the same level of evidence as prescription hydroquinone, but it does have more data behind it than many trendy plant ingredients. For mild dark spots and as a maintenance option after stronger treatments, it can be a reasonable part of a brightening strategy.

Other Benefits for the Skin

Licorice root extract is not only about pigment. Because of its anti inflammatory and antioxidant activities, it may also support overall skin health in several ways:

• Calming irritation. Experimental studies show that licorice components can reduce the production of inflammatory mediators in skin cells.^1,2,9 This aligns with the traditional use of licorice in soothing irritated tissues.
• Supporting the skin barrier. By lowering inflammation and oxidative stress, licorice can indirectly support the barrier function of the outermost skin layers, which helps with dryness and sensitivity.^1,9
• Adding antioxidant protection. Licorice flavonoids help neutralize reactive oxygen species generated by UV exposure and pollution, which can contribute to fine lines and uneven tone over time.^2,9

These effects are not a replacement for sunscreen or a well formulated moisturizer, but they add another layer of support, especially in formulas designed for stressed or reactive skin.

How To Choose and Use Licorice Root Extract Products

If you want to try licorice root extract for dark spots or general skin support, here are some practical guidelines.

Look for Leave On Products

Licorice derivatives work best when they stay in contact with the skin. Serums, essences, spot treatments, and moisturizers are usually more useful than cleansers that rinse off after a few seconds.

Check the Ingredient List

Licorice can appear under several names, including:

• Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
• Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
• Glabridin
• Liquiritin
• Licochalcone A

In most cosmetic formulas, you will not see the exact percentage listed. As a general rule of thumb, having licorice extract or a named derivative in the middle of the ingredient list often suggests a meaningful level for a brightening formula, while a listing near the very end likely indicates a lower, more supportive concentration.

Combine With Other Proven Steps

No brightening ingredient works well if your skin is constantly being triggered to make more pigment. To get the most from licorice root extract:

• Use a broad spectrum sunscreen every day, even when it is cloudy
• Limit unnecessary sun exposure when you are actively treating dark spots
• Consider pairing licorice with other evidence based brighteners such as niacinamide or vitamin C if your skin tolerates them well^5,8

Most people will need to use licorice containing products consistently for at least 8 to 12 weeks before judging results, since pigment turnover in the skin is naturally slow.^5,8

Safety and Side Effects

When taken by mouth in large amounts, licorice containing high levels of glycyrrhizin can raise blood pressure, lower potassium, and cause water retention in susceptible people.^1,10 Those concerns are mainly about supplements and medicinal doses, not standard cosmetic use.

Topical licorice root extract, used in typical skincare concentrations, is generally well tolerated. Clinical studies with liquiritin creams and licorice containing brightening products have reported very few adverse events, mostly mild and temporary irritation in a small number of users.^6,7,8,9

Even so, it is wise to:

• Patch test a new product on a small area for several days if you have sensitive skin
• Be cautious with very high concentration serums if you have a history of allergic reactions
• Discuss intensive licorice based regimens or oral supplements with a healthcare professional if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or managing high blood pressure or kidney disease^1,10

The Bottom Line

Licorice root extract is a well studied botanical with real potential benefits for uneven skin tone. Components such as glabridin and liquiritin can influence how pigment is produced and distributed in the skin, while other constituents help calm inflammation and provide antioxidant protection.^{2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9}

It is not a magic eraser for severe hyperpigmentation, and results are usually gradual rather than dramatic. However, as part of a routine that also includes sun protection and gentle skincare, licorice root extract can be a useful, science backed ally in the pursuit of a more even, radiant complexion.

References

1. Wahab S, Annadurai S, Abullais SS, et al. Glycyrrhiza glabra (Licorice): A comprehensive review on its phytochemistry, biological activities, clinical evidence and toxicology. Plants. 2021;10(12):2751. doi:10.3390/plants10122751. Link
2. Simmler C, Pauli GF, Chen SN. Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin. Fitoterapia. 2013;90:160-184. doi:10.1016/j.fitote.2013.07.003. Link
3. Yokota T, Nishio H, Kubota Y, Mizoguchi M. The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation. Pigment Cell Research. 1998;11(6):355-361. Link
4. Nerya O, Vaya J, Musa R, Izrael S, Ben-Arie R, Tamir S. Glabrene and isoliquiritigenin as tyrosinase inhibitors from licorice roots. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. 2003;51(5):1201-1207. doi:10.1021/jf020935v. Link
5. Hollinger JC, Angra K, Halder RM. Are natural ingredients effective in the management of hyperpigmentation? Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2018;11(2):28-37. Link
6. Amer M, Metwalli M. Topical liquiritin improves melasma. International Journal of Dermatology. 2000;39(4):299-301. doi:10.1046/j.1365-4362.2000.00895.x. Link
7. Zubair S, Mujtaba G. Comparison of efficacy of topical 2% liquiritin, topical 4% liquiritin and topical 4% hydroquinone in the management of melasma. Journal of Pakistan Association of Dermatologists. 2009;19:158-163. Link
8. Wang T, Wang X, Zhou S, et al. Efficacy and safety of topical therapy with botanical products for melasma: A systematic review. Frontiers in Medicine. 2022;8:797890. doi:10.3389/fmed.2021.797890. Link
9. Cerulli A, Masullo M, Montoro P, Piacente S. Licorice as a cosmetic ingredient: From traditional use to modern applications. Cosmetics. 2022;9(1):7. doi:10.3390/cosmetics9010007. Link
10. Hasan MK, Ara I, Mondal MSA, Kabir Y. Phytochemistry, pharmacological activity and potential health benefits of Glycyrrhiza glabra. Heliyon. 2021;7(6):e07240. doi:10.1016/j.heliyon.2021.e07240. Link